Paris To Digoin

Sat 23 June 07

Paris- Boissise-la-Bertrand (River Seine 58 km 4 locks)

after four days in Paris and 117 euro for mooring we decided to leave and continue on our journey. We still need to find somewhere to leave the boat and fly home to sort out some details at home.

0730 hrs got up early looking for a good start, however getting out of the Arsenal was a little more difficult than you'd think. Finally at 1100 hrs we enter the lock to leave. This is a strait forward run up stream and we'd planned to cover 40 km today. The first lock is only 7 km away, Ecluse Anglais. This turned out to be run by one of those Frenchman who didn't like pleasure craft (not even French ones) On approach we radioed for the gates to be opened and got the green light, on approach the lights were switched to red and we had to turn away. After treading water for 15 mins of which he wouldn't answer the radio, we spotted a peniche approaching form the upstream side. He entered and the lock cycled, once again the light went to green and we approached, to have the light turned to red once more. We again treed water for 10 mins and we are passed by a peniche travelling upstream. He enters the lock and moors right at the very back, so when we enter we have to pass him in the lock and moor up front. The lock cycles once more and just when you think your about to escape the lock keeper keeps everybody waiting for 40 mins while the peniche fills his water tanks. On exit I did my very best to thank the keeper for his kind consideration. I'm pleased to say his kind are very few and far between. The rest of the journey was straight forward, other than being delayed at Ablon Sur Seine because he closed for lunch. When we reached our our end point for the day which was to be Ceris Orangis there was no where to moor as all the live aboard peniche had the banks taken. We just kept plodding on finally stopping at Boissise La Bertrand when the locks closed for the night at 1900 hrs. A very nice peaceful place, we had to use the fender board as the side wall was designed for peniche and had a large overhanging lip. However once moored and fenders placed we retired to George and Lucie's boat for wine, champers and strawberries. Facilities here are nil other than mooring free but these can turn out to be the better places if you looking for peace and quiet.

Sun 24 June 07

Boissise La Bertrand-Chartrettes (River Seine 14 km 2 locks)

once again looking for an early start to cover the small distance of 14 km and catch up with Tom who had left Paris a couple of days earlier.

0730 hrs up and ready to go but once again we got stuck at the lock due to commercial traffic and it was 1100 hrs before we passed through the Ecluse Vives Eaux. This is a very affluent stretch of the river and is commuter country for Paris. The houses here are large and look very expensive with well manicured lawns. The river it's self very quiet with it being Sunday only one or two commercial peniche on the go, we just always find them on the approach to the locks and they always get priority. Just before Chartrettes is a town, Melun and on the charts is an island with "prison" identified on it. As we passed it was truly as you'd expect a prison to be, high brick walls topped with barbed wire and watch towers, the building it's self was like something form the fifties with tiny windows and exterior bars fitted to everyone. Funny but you get the impression once you've been here you won't want to re-offend. So we move along the river to arrive at Chartrettes Ecluse La Cave 1230 hrs and doesn't he close for lunch so once again we get stuck for 90 mins to cover the last one hundred meters to the Halte Fluviale which is a private sailing club that allows us poor wanders to use it facilities for a meagre 7 euro a night or 40 week or an even cheaper 100 a month. The town is situated closed by with two train stations both with excellent services to Paris 35 mins away. So we've made enquiries about leaving the boat here for a week and flying home. All we need to do is arrange the flights. George and Lucie are staying here a month for the jazz festival so they have offered to keep an eye on the boat while we're away.

Tues 26 June

Flights arranged we left Tamara moored safely on the pontoons of Chartlettes 75 km from Paris. 0430 hrs we walk the 5 km to the station to catch the 0531 hrs train to Gare de Lyon change to the green train to Gare de Nord then change to the blue train for Charles De Gaule 2 a total of 73 minutes but the first train is cancelled and we have to wait for the 0601 hrs train instead. However we have plenty time as the flight isn't till 1030 hrs and in true Easyjet form is late by 30 mins. This time at home gives us the opportunity to sort out the bungalow and collect spares and new pieces of kit before returning to collect the boat. At 1130 hrs Gemma collects us from the airport, it doesn't feel as though we've been away over six weeks already.

Mon 02 July

Flight times for returning to France are 1810 hrs from NCL. This should get us home on Tamara for around 2100 hrs. All spares and food packed, did I mention you should bring with you ample supplies of gravy granules, Yorkshire pudding mix and stuffing, they don't have any of these in France.(Uncivilised people) oh! and dumplings, they haven't got a clue. For us the journey begins at 1400 hrs when we go to Gemma's and wasn't too end till 0130 hrs tomorrow, with flight delays due to weather and train delays due to people sending us to the wrong platforms. However at the other end, on the platform at Melun was George the guardian angle of the French waterways waiting for us, who had called shortly after we left CDG airport to see where we were and arranged to collect us from Melun. We were very pleased to see him there. The bad news is that Tom who we have travelled with since Gravelines, has had to be lifted out the water at Champagne sur Seine following a discussion with the canal bottom and his propellors. Both were badly damaged

Tues 03 July

Recovering form yesterday and tiding away all the parts we returned with.

Wed 04 July

We decided to stay another day and sort out the boat before we moved on. We really needed to do a supply run to the local Champion super market and listening to every bodies advice we needed to create some form of sun shade over the cockpit. So we called in at the local brico (B&Q to us) and parted with about sixty euro's for six, four meter lengths of 32 mm dia waste pipe and various T's and 90 deg bends and we spent the afternoon fabricating a frame over the cockpit which we could then stretch our ex army capes to give us the cover.

Thurs 05 July

Chartlettes-Ecluse 14 Bordes (River Seine-Canal de Loing 32 km 7 locks)

Ecluse;

Champagne 2 lift 2.95 m

Moret 19 lift 2.24 m

Bourgogne 18 lift 2.37m

Ecuelles 17 lift 1.31 m

Episy 16 lift 3.16 m

Berville 15 1.96 m

Bordes 14 lift 1.93 m

0800 hrs cast off with a little help from the French boat behind as there's a gale blowing form astern. We will be meeting up with Tom who is still at Champagne sur Seine waiting for the two propellers to be delivered and machined. At about 1200 hrs we catch up with Tom and Winston at the lock of Campaign sur Seine and find that he's back in the water but still waiting for parts so can't go anywhere. It's sad but we have to leave him behind as we need to cover the distance we've lost by returning home. Tom is thinking of returning home to the UK. Our admiration goes with him, to have handled a Broom 35 this far single handed is to be admired. We turn off the River Seine into the Canal de Loing at St Mammes this canal is very narrow and shallow, in places the sonar is reading 0.1 below the keel. The locks are all 39 meters long and 5 meters wide, however you still meet the occasional commercial peniche, who it must be said are very professional in their approach(more then can be said for the live aboard). The Canal de Loing is about 20 meters wide and 1.5 meters deep. Our draft is 1.5 meters peniche are very similar, there isn't enough water at the edges. The way to approach a passing arrangements is NOT to head for the bank, steer directly at the peniche bow, who will all but stop and when you close on him man handle your yacht along the side of the peniche, the guys are great at this, it saves damage to either boat. For the first time we had to moor bows in as the water simply wasn't deep enough for us. This involved rigging stern lines around the bows to keep the stern out in the canal away from the shallows, we also used the fender plank tidied to the toe rail to keep the boat out from the bank. A valuable lesson we learned tonight was to use the wind, turn the boat so the wind pulls the stern out from the bank, compensate with lines ashore. All in all a very restless night sleep. However a bonus was we met Paul and Ruth who were taking their boat back to the UK from the Med after 8 years of sailing the Med. The information we gained has been extremely valuable. Not to mention a good evening spent exchanging stories and wine.

Fri 06 July

Ecluse 14 Bordes-Ecluse 7 Neronville-Ecluse(Canal de Loing 21 km 7 locks)

Ecluse

Fromonville 13 stop gates

Buttes 12 lift 1.60 m

Chaintreauville 11 lift 3.10 m

Bagneaux 10 lift 2.09 m

Beaumoulin 9 lift 2.20 m

Egreville 8 lift 0.48m

Neronville 7 lift 3.11 m

We left our moorings at Ecluse 14 by 1000 hrs. With the plan to cover 24 km and 10 locks. Did we mention that all but a few of the locks in his canal section are manual, you are expected to help the keeper with the operation of the opposite side. In the little locks this isn't a problem however in the larger locks ahead it is easier t put a crew member a shore a little way from the lock and have them catch your ropes and help the keeper. This part of the journey was interrupted for most of the day as we spent a great deal of time in Nemours, having a little look around but more importantly seeing a doctor for Debs who hasn't been very well lately. During our trip home she was given antibiotics by our Doctor, which unfortunately reacts with sun light. However 21 euro for a consultation and 2.46 euro for tablets is a sight cheaper then 6% of your income, you also get to see the doctor the same day not two weeks later. This section on the journey was very scenic and the staff at all but one of the locks are extremely helpful. What's more, if you ask them a question in french as we needed to on several occasions today, they will always do their best to answer in English. Paul and Ruth who we met last nigh at out mooring sight did indicate that the further south you go the more pleasant the people become, this is true. The young lock keeper at the last lock asked us how much further we are going today, as they radio a head and prepare the locks for you. We replied one, he then said that if we did one, there was no go moorings along the stretch, which is only one km long, however if we were to continue to the next lock there is a mooring (free) which would have enough depth for our boat to be along side birthed and not bow too. He was very helpful as we've ended up with an lovely birth for the night in a peaceful scenic location. This section of the canal is shallow, narrow and tricky but can be easily navigated with care. If you read Michael Bryants book, he says that the distance to cover in the Canal de Loing and canal de Briare is 103 km and seven locks, the Canal de Loing is 49 km and 19 locks, canal de Briare is 54 km and 32 locks. MMMM! someone's got his info wrong.

Cepoy Mill

Sat 07 July

Neronville- Montargis (Canal De Loing-C

anal De Briare 21 km 10 locks)

Ecluse.

Brise barre 6 lift 1.76 m

Nargris 5 lift 1.39 m

Retourne 4 lift 1.94 m

Montabon 3 lift 1.41 m

Vallees 2 lift 1.49 m

Cepoy 1 lift 1.52 m

Buges 36 lift 1.46 m

Langlee 35 lift 2.30 m

La Reinette 34 lift 2.18 m

La Marolle 33 lift 4.80 m

A fairly leisurely start to the day as we went off exploring the local country side looking for Chateaux Landon. We only have 20 km to cover today and as the locks are all staffed by students, who always have the locks ready for you, we knew we could cover this distance comfortably in half a day. The journey itself is very pleasant with scenic views and very pleasant staff who are extremely helpful. They will ask you if you are intending to continue after this lock and give advise as to where haltes are best for different type of boats. They also will ring ahead and inform the lock of your arrival. What's more, if you make the effort to speak french, and are clearly struggling they will answer in good English but you have to make the effort first. It's possibly true that the further south you go the more pleasant the people become. However we have been warned about Montargis and will pass on this information, do not moor in the industrial zone just down stream of the city. Go through and complete the last lock which is a large 4.8 m and what's more there are no floating buoys, no ladders, no moorings in the walls. The little girl who operates the lock lowers a line and hook for you to put your lines on and she secures it to the bollard. Immediately on exit of the lock is a halte that has electricity and water for 5.80 euro a night. Access to the city is only minutes away, as this is city centre. It's a beautiful place with an all day market on Saturday, the canal passes right through the centre. For size it's probably on pare with a large English Town like Berwick.

Sun 08 July

Montargis-Chatillon Coligny (Canal de Briare 23 km 8 locks)

Ecluse

la Tuilerie 32 lift 2.12 m

Sablonniere 32 lift 3.01 m

Souffre douleur 30 lift 3.70 m

Min de Tours 29 lift 3.72 m auto

Chesnoy 28 lift 3.73 m auto

Montambert 27 lift 3.70 m auto

Montbouy 26 lift 5.12 m

Lepinoy 25 lift 4.94 m

Another fairly straight forward day, should be quiet as it's Sunday. As usual nothing goes according to plan, as you can see from the heights of the locks these are deep locks for this stretch of canal, what's more and you don't find this out until your nearly inside the first lock, these have no where to put your lines, it's no problem if you are travelling alone because you can tie to the ladders but as the French holiday season approaches more and more pleasure boats are taking to the water and you find yourself having to double up. With the lock at Souffre douleur 30 the lock keeper has a line with a hook on for you to place your lines and he secures them to the bollards, the next two locks are automatic and the keeper didn't come with us. I had to put Debs ashore before the lock to walk up and catch the lines for us. These locks don't have any rising bollards, rising lines or wall fixings, you can only use the bollards on the top and there's no way your going to reach them from the deck. This would be a very difficult stretch for a single hander. At Ecluse Montbouy the navicart tell us there are showers available, we couldn't find them, neither could a local woman we asked. There is a very pleasant fluviale with 2 meters depth, water, electricity on tokens available form the the local Tabac and Boulangerie. Worth stopping if you have showers onboard, if not keeping going another 2 locks and 3 km to Chatillon-Coligny. A great little town steeped in history since the Roman times. Mr Becquerel 1810-1878 Pionnier de l electricite. As you round the bend in the canal the pontoons are on the right. Water, electricity and the town only minutes away and it's free, oh yes and really good showers, which is why we stopped here. As part of exploring any town we always make for the church's, just happened tonight was a concert by Choeur Forbelle-Jeuneviox, a choir of 55 young people ranging from 7 to 18 years old. We have never heard singing like this. A good way to spend an evening.

Tue 09 July

Chatillon-Coligny to Rogny Les Sept Ecluse (Canal De Briare 9 km 6 locks)

Ecluse

Chatillon 24 lift3.24 m

Gazon 23 lift 3.26 m

Briquemault 22 lift 3.28 m

Min Brule 21 lift 3.48

Picardie 20 lift 3.48 m

Dammarie 19 lift 3.48 m

We stopped in Chatillon until lunch time in order to do some shopping, to days travel was only 9 km and we thought it was going to be easy. However the last three locks are banked very close together which helps to get them over with but doesn't give you much time to sort the boat out between locks. All of these locks are manned and none of them have any form of mooring built into the walls. They are all to high to get a line on from the deck. We reached Min Brule at about 1230 hrs , the ecluse was closed for lunch, there is moorings just before every lock for just such occasions, the water levels here are only 1.2 m we had to raft to a motor boat that was already moored. At 1300 hrs the locks open and off we go, the motor boat was hard aground. Stopping places with enough depth of water are hard to find on this stretch of canal. Rogny a little town has a fluviale but again you have to pick your mooring very carefully as even here places have only 1.2 m. You always go bow gently in with a crew member up front watching and feeling with a boat hook for the bottom. The quay wall in new, electricity and water, showers and WIFI all included for 11 euro a night and if you stop two nights the second night is half price. The staff at the office will even run you to in a car the 8 km to the supermarket all in the price. The fluviale office is 50 m away in he form of the local chandlers, with engineering facilities, they will lend you equipment as well. I borrowed a wood saw and a drill with hole cutter, to cut the fender board in half so I could use it on both sides permanently. You need them!!

Wed 11 July 07

Rogny Les sept Ecluse-Chatillon sur Loire (Canal de Briare-Canal Lateral a la Loire 24 km 14 locks)

Ste Barbe 18 lift 4.15 m

Rogny 17 lift 4.15 m

Chantepinot 16 lift 4.15 m

St Joseph 15 lift 41.5 m

Racault 14 lift 4.15 m

Javaciere 13 lift 3.95 m

Gazone 12 lift 2.34 m

Pit Chaloy 11 lift 3.75 m

Notre Dame 10 lift 3.69 m

Les Fees 9 lift 3.72 m

Min Neuf 8 lift 3.72 m

Ouzouer 7 lift 4 m

Courenvaux 6 lift 3.89 m

Venon 5 lift 3.46 m

0900 hrs cast of to be first in the locks, to complete the six lock staircase before the traffic starts. For some reason the whole of the French waterways start at 0700 hrs, this lock starts at 0900 hrs.1000 hrs have completed the first six locks of today's run now theirs only eight more to do but they are down hill from here and they are all automatic which means we operate them and we can get ourselves in and out quicker then with a keeper. 1200 hrs got stuck again at number 8 lock because of dinner time, even though this is automatic they shut down for dinner, problem being that when you try to moor on the side of the canal their is seldom enough water for us and we end up sticking the stern out into the canal. On the exit of this lock Debs lost her footing on deck when trying to push off the side falling badly on the guard rail, very nearly going over the side, she's black and blue from head to toe. Gave me a bloody fright as well. 1430 hrs we reach our target Briare with the pont canal over the river Loire, I remember this from years ago when you travelled France with the kids, camping. 1500 hrs we approach the pont canal very cautiously looking for traffic control system as this bridge is 1 km long 5 meters wide, single file only and the sides are ragy as hell if you have to lean on them for any reason. Right on the entrance, still no lights. We finally just sail straight on and decide the possession is nine tenths. Luckily nothing came the other way, we couldn't believe that something like this could not be controlled by lights or time. Debs was taking photos asking me to smile, I was too worried about something coming the other way and concentrating on keeping the boat in the middle. 1530 hrs arrived Chatillon sur Loire and found an empty birth, this is the only sure way of finding enough water to moor safely in. a birth for a 10 m boat cost us 7 euro, water included electricity extra. Had a quick look around the town and will pop back tomorrow before we leave as there's a market on. However the town looks run down and the pleasure boat operate who occupies part of the fluviale is warning people not to leave valuables on display and always lock your boats when your not on board. This is the first time we've be told this in France, we have been able to leave the boat not only unlocked but open while we've been away.

Services-

water, electric, showers, toilets all for 7 euro a night. Having said that the toilets where filthy and we didn't use the showers either.

Thurs 12 July 07

Chatillon Sur Loire - Herry (canal lateral a la Loire 50 km 8 locks)

Maimbray 38 lift 2.08 m

Belleville 37 lift 2.00 m

Houards 36 lift 1.79 m

Peseau 35 lift 2.13 m

Bannay 34 lift 3.00 m

Thouvenay 33 lift 3.75 m

Grange 32 lift 1.75 m

Pree 31 lift 1.97 m

Cast off about 1000 hrs today, took a walk around the local market before leaving as we had a small amount of locks to complete. The distances aren't the problem, it's the locks that slow you down. Today went straight forward, no problems with the locks or the boat and we arrived at Herry 1630 hrs. a small town with a history dating from 721. The Navicartes indicate that this town has all services to offer, which is why we picked to stay here. There is no showers , no fuel, water and electric are there but are controlled by tokens. We stayed the night anyway.It was free.

Fri 13 July 07

Herry - Plagny

(Canal lateral a la Loire 43 km 9 locks)

Herry 30 lift 2.71 m

Rousseaux 29 lift 2.00 m

Argenvieres 28 lift 2.64 m

Beffes 27 lift 2.13 m

Aubois 26 lift 2.47 m

Aubigny 25 lift 2.51 m

Laubray 24 lift 1.33 m

Guetin 21/2 lift 9.23 m (double lock)

Left Herry 0900 hrs to continue with the distance and locks to Plagny, once again stated in the Navicartes as having showers, electricity, water, pontoons and fuel. When we arrived there the services stated where ran by a charter hire company who would not let none customers use their facilities, we ended up mooring bow in again under a tree for shade. The only bit of excitement of today was when the boat in front of us at lock 23 the large double lock, lost a member of their crew in the water when she tried to jump for the quay wall and missed, nearly getting hit by the stern of the boat as it pulled in. The double lock and the pont canal immediately after it, over the River Allier which joins the Loire, is worth seeing, it lifts in two stages of 4.6m each.

Sat 14 July

Plagny-Jaugenay lock 20

(Canal a la Loire 13 km)

Bastille day nothing gets done by the french today. We've had enough of this little place so at 0900 I cycle to the next lock 13 km away to make sure everything's closed, and it is. We decided to move off from Plagny at 1400 hrs and travel down to the next lock ready for the morning. We arrived there 1520 hrs and moor bows in, between a group of fishermen. One of whom takes to teaching us to fish for Cat fish. Takes a great deal of time to tell us how when you catch them you've to cut off the fins because of the spines in them, an entertaining afternoon, he was the only one catching fish that day.

Sun 15 July

Jaugenay lock 20 - Bourbon Lancy

(Canal a la Loire 49 km 11 locks)

Average lift 3.00 m

A busy day, cast off 0900 hrs and travelled all day with two Frenchmen on a 36 ft power boat who were on their way to Spain. He tried his best to speak English and we tried our best to speak French, together we learned many words and phrases.Had a discussion with the lock keeper at lock 15. Arrived at Bourbon Lancy 1800 hrs, Great little place, one pontoon, plenty of depth and it was free. However the showers had been closed due to vandalism, so we had our own little shower with the water hose connected to the tap.

Mon 16 July

Bourbon Lancy - Digoin

(Canal a la Loire 35 km 9 locks)

average lift 2.5 m

A straight forward section with the usual depth of water average 0.5 below the keel. The last lock is interesting as it exits onto a Pont Canal over the River Loire. Some of the sections are very shallow and at one point in this 1.8 m canal we dredged the bottom for over ten minutes. Arriving at Digoin at 1530 hrs with Derek waiting for us on the pontoon. Our engine had began to smoke quite badly for the last hour. Once booked in I made enquiries with the local boat rental company about a diesel mechanic to confirm some suspicions, Tamara was moored on the other side of the bridge and the rental company asked me to move her onto their pontoons to save the fitter from walking. This is typical of France the lazy b*****ds want you to put the work on their plate. Needless to say he didn't get the job. Derek has circumnavigated the world and various other sailing activities, he's als lived in France for a number of years, so I asked his advice and luckily he was talking to Michael at the time, Michael is the best diesel fitter in France and his advice is free. He came across to Tamara and told me straight away what was wrong, Two hours later I had changed all the parts he said and the smoke was gone.

Tues 17 July

Digoin

Decided to stay here to day and catch up on a few jobs, Laundry, shopping for the next four days and 80 ltrs of fuel. Not much of a day off. The next four days where going to be full on and very busy with very few places to park, and certainly not next to any shops. The next stage is also where the canal changes to the Canal Du Centre.

Digoin to Chalon Sur Saone